Nesebar – Bulgaria review

[For English version scroll down below photos]

Numai fusesem de mult timp pe la vecinii din Sud , si daca tot aveam o seara si noapte de petrecut in Vama Veche am zis ca e o idee buna sa dam o fuga dincolo de granita pe zi. Varna si Balchic le-am vazut de mai multe ori asa ca am optat pentru ceva mai indepartat si anume orasul antic Nesebar , o fortareata antica din patrimoniu UNESCO  recent restaurata , situata pe o insula ce se leaga de uscat printr-un pod construit de oameni. O adevarata bijuterie de la Marea Neagra ce atrage sute de mii  de turisti in fiecare an , fiind integrata de statul bulgar impreuna cu noua statiune Sunny Beach din imediata apropiere.

Cateva sfaturi inainte de drum : tineti cont de rovinieta pentru Bulgaria care costa 5 Euro si se cumpara de la granita , goliti-va portbagajul de orice chestie suspecta (gen o arma de Airsoft 🙂 ) , daca nu va luati Leva din tara , interesati-va dinainte care e cursul valutar si aveti grija de unde schimbati valuta , la unele exchangeuri au alt pret pentru cash , cititi cu atentie pancartele si nu schimbati niciodata pe strada bani!! Va puteti lua Lei , vi schimba la aproape toate exchangeurile.  Cred ca numai este necesar sa va spun ca e imperativ sa respectati limita de viteza acolo.

Daca drumul de la Vama Veche pana la Varna este relativ usor si lejer , imediat cum iesi din Varna pe inaltul pod sudic  Asparuhov , urmeaza o incurajatoare bucata de autostrada , care din pacate se termina brusc dupa 10 kilometri , continuandu-se cu un drum plin de serpentine foarte aglomerat. Daca la inceput traseul plin de  serpentinele asemanator cu Valea Prahovei este placut soferilor , dupa 100 de kilometri de traseu intortocheat cu o singura banda pe fiecare sens  si plin de Tiruri si autocare soferul este cam rupt. Un drum de 260 km de la Constanta la Nesebar in conditiile anterior mentionate a durat 5 ore.  Bulgaria fata de Romania are o coasta foarte  inalta si plina de dealuri , paduri si munti , iar unde muntele intalneste marea apare un peisaj superb similar cu cel din Grecia sau Spania . Aproape de Nesebar cand am prins pentru prima oara un spatiu liber intre sosea si mare am vazut in departare undeva jos marea albastra , turnurile hotelurilor din Sunny Beach , si in larg se intindea orasul antic – superba privelistea.

In Sunny Beach era aglomeratie mare in varf de sezon , aspectul statiunii nu este uimitor dar este mult mai curat si elegant fata de statiunile romanesti , oriunde privesti te intampina hoteluri noi construite pe culmi din ce in ce mai inalte pe masura ce te departezi de mare dar ca si la noi este greu de tot cu parcarea.  Am parcat intr-un parking public sugerat de GPS , unde era pretul universal din statiune – 2 leva pe ora ( adica cam 4 lei pe ora ) , recomand parkingurile acestea mari autorizate si pazite decat cele improvizate unde va puteti trezi cu masina tractata si cu multe batai de cap dupa. Nu va luati dupa faptul ca sunt multe masini parcate intr-un loc , deobicei majoritatea sunt ale localnicilor care “au voie” sa parcheze in acele spatii , nu se aplica si la turisti regula.

Dupa parcare , ne-am oprit la una din multele terase ce marginesc faleza inalta , unde ai parte de o priveliste superba si unde am dat pe o cafea , un ceai , si 2 ape sub 6 leva (12 lei) , WOWWWWWW , si acelasi pret mic l-am observat si in centrul orasului Varna , unde o cafea costa 1,2 leva (sub 3 lei). Aparent numai la noi te jegmaneste pe oriunde mergi.

Dupa ce am traversat podul spre orasul vechi am fost intampinati de ruinele portii de piatra ce era sprijinita odata de ziduri , iar imediat dupa poarta este o piata frumoasa , care din pacate a fost umpluta pana la refuz de terase , mese si tarabe cu suveniruri. Orasul si-a pastrat stradutele intortocheate , si stilul specific al cladirilor cu parterul din piatra si etaj din lemn , majoritatea cu balcoane de lemn suspendate in aer. Intre stradutele inguste se afla numeroase ruine ale bisericutelor ortodoxe de pe insula , dar majoritatea au fost reduse la cateva ramasite ale zidurilor exterioare de piatra. Din pacate fiecare unghi bun de facut poze e distrus de cate o masina parcata abuziv in aleile inguste , deobicei un jeepan mare al diferitilor patroni de localuri din zona care ca si la noi in pur stil balcanic trebuie sa vina cu masina pana la botul calului in fata barului sau pensiunii. In acelasi stil balcanic ca si la noi , mai toate stradutele pitoresti sunt umplute de tarabe sprijinite de ziduri pline cu magnetei , canute , tricouri , sutiene , mileuri si alte balarii , ceea ce lasa un gust amar de bazar ieftin plin cu chinezarii pe orice strada , adica in loc sa admiri arhitectura si combinatia de cladiri esti obligat sa privesti tarabe colorate pline cu chinezarii….Pana si  interiorul unei superbe biserici restaurate a fost transformat in totalitate in mini bazar cu iconite si suveniruri.    S-au bagat bani in renovarea cetatii , dar nu peste tot a iesit cum trebuie , pe cele 2 artere principale are orasului vechi din pacate s-a turnat asfalt , pe cand s-ar fi putut face cu piatra cubica netezita ca in Sibiu sau Alba Iulia si exemplele pot continua.

Ne-am oprit si la unul din restaurantele de pe marginea orasului , un local de familie cu vedere la mare , unde un meniu cu peste , garnitura si o bautura era 10 Leva. Preturile la terasele de pe insula Nesebar se aseamana cu cele din Mamaia.

Dar oricum asa una peste alta orasul e frumos , si merita vizitat , recomand o vizita in Septembrie sau in mai – iunie cand e mai racoare , soarele la amiaza  in Iulie te poate rapune si iti poate face foarte scurta vizita.  Enjoy the pics

Daca ti-a placut articolul , iti recomand si unul din celalte articole despre calatorit din lista de mai jos si Vezi de asemenea si pagina de Fb GarciaCalavera.ro  , care daca va place ii puteti da un like.

Vezi si alte calatorii / Check out other trips : Vacanta PragaVacanta MadridDoua zile in Jacksonville USAParalia – Grecia cu masinaBrasov 12.2014Buzau quick stopLepsa & Vrancea countyChisinauNesebarBucharest weekends 2014 , Busan40 de zile in Cluj NapocaHunedoara CastleSingapore 2013Brasov 02.2014 , Istanbul 01.2014 , Cluj Napoca 08.2013 , Sibiu 07.2013San Pedro , Bucharest 2013 , Varna 2012 , Los Angeles 2012 , Budapest & Viena , Salerno , Cluj Napoca 2012 , Firenze , Brasov 02.2012 , Amsterdam , Antofagasta , Valencia , Lima , Bremen , Istanbul 2009 , Valletta , San Juan , Barcelona , Singapore 2010 , Los Angeles 2010 , Transilvania road trip , La Spezia , Bosphor by ship , Sydney , Melbourne , AucklandSan FranciscoTauranga

Alternative tourism: Detroit , Georgia , Burning gate of Turkmenistan , North Korea , Pripyat & the alienation zone   , Nouadhibou graveyard

Cum traieste cealalta jumatate / How the other half lives :  KarachiGuayaquil  , Lagos

[English version]

It has been quite some time since I had visited our  neighbors in the South, and since we had a night planned in Vama Veche decided to go across the border during day time. I have visited  Varna and Balchic  several times before  so I opted for something more distant, namely the ancient city of Nesebar, a UNESCO heritage ancient fortress , recently restored, situated on an island that connects to the mainland by a man-made bridge. A true gem of the Black Sea which attracts thousands of tourists every year and is integrated with the new Bulgarian  resort of  Sunny Beach in the immediate vicinity.

Some tips before the you hit the road: keep in mind the vignette for Bulgaria that cost 5 Euros and can be bought at the border, empty your trunk of any suspicious thing (like an Airsoft gun :))), if you do not buy the Bulgarian currency – Leva in your  country, Enquire before what is the exchange rate and check carefully the different prices for cash, read the banners and never change money on the street! You can bring Lei, they accept Romanian Currency at almost all the exchange houses. I think I don’t need to say that it is imperative to respect the speed limit there.

If you go from Vama Veche to Varna is relatively easy and straight road , however , just as you get out of Varna passing  on the high bridge Asparuhov follows an encouraging piece of highway, which unfortunately ends abruptly after 10 km, and it continues  into a mountain like  road  very crowded. If at first the trail full of turns like Prahova Valley is pleasant for drivers ,  after 100 kilometers of twisted road with a single lane in each direction and full of  trucks and buses , the driver will be worn out. A journey of 260 km from Constanta to Nessebar in the aforementioned conditions lasted 5 hours. The Bulgaria coast is different from Romania , it has a very tall coast and full of hills, forests and mountains. Where the mountain meets the sea  beautiful scenery appears ,  similar to that of Greece or Spain. Close to Nesebar when I first caught a glimpse of the Sea I saw the blue sea in the distance and somewhere down the towers of the  hotels in Sunny Beach, and widely stretched ancient town of Nesebar – gorgeous view.

In Sunny Beach , the resort layout is not amazing but it is much cleaner and elegant compared to Romanian resorts , everywhere you look you are greeted by new hotels , however the ever present problem of parking is present there also. I parked in a public parking suggested by the GPS where the price was universal in the resort – 2 leva per hour (ie about 1 EUR per hour),I recommend these large authorized parkings  which are  guarded , rather  than makeshift car spaces where you can wake up with your car picked up and after with many headaches.

After parking, we stopped at one of the many terraces bordering the high cliff, where you get a great view and where we paid for coffee, tea, and two waters under 6 leva ( 3 EUR ) WOWWWWWW!! , and the same low price I’ve seen in the center of Varna, where a coffee costs 1.2 leva (less than 0.6 EUR). Apparently only In Romania you will get ripped off.

After we crossed the bridge we were greeted  to the old city gate  and  stone ruins that are part of the external walls, and immediately after the gate is a beautiful open space , which unfortunately was filled to the brim with  terraces, dining tables and souvenir stalls. The city has retained many of it’s winding streets, and the style of the buildings with a first floor made of stone and a second one made of wood , most with wooden balconies hanging in the air. Between the narrow streets there are numerous ruins of the Orthodox churches  on the island, but most have been reduced to a few remnants of the stone exterior walls. Unfortunately every good angle where you like to take picture is detroyed by a car parked improperly in narrow alleys, usually a large jeep belonging to the various patrons of restaurants in the area. In the same Balkan style like us, all picturesque streets are filled with stalls supported by walls filled with magnets, Cannot, shirts, bras, doilies and other junk, which leaves a bitter taste of  cheap bazaar filled with Chinese souvenirs on any street . Rather than admiring the architecture and the combination of buildings you are forced to watch the colorful stalls filled with Chinese crap…. They poured money into renovating the city, but not everywhere came right on the old town’s two main roads unfortunately they poured asphalt instead of some nice  cubic stone smoothed for cars and the examples can continue.

We stopped to eat at one of the restaurants on the edge of the Island , a nice family owned place  , with a sea view , where a fish menu costs 5 Euro.  The prices on the Island – City are similar to those in Mamaia – Romania.

Over all the city is beautiful and a visit is worth it , I recommend a visit in September or in May-June when it’s cooler, the sun during mid day time cand be awful and can cut your visit short.  Enjoy the pics

Vezi alte calatorii / other trips : Bucharest weekends 2014 , Busan40 days in Cluj NapocaHunedoara CastleSingapore 2013Brasov 02.2014 , Istanbul 01.2014 , Cluj Napoca 08.2013 , Sibiu 07.2013San Pedro , Bucharest 2013 , Varna 2012 , Los Angeles 2012 , Budapest & Viena , Salerno , Cluj Napoca 2012 , Firenze , Brasov 02.2012 , Amsterdam , Antofagasta , Valencia , Lima , Bremen , Istanbul 2009 , Valletta , San Juan , Barcelona , Singapore 2010 , Los Angeles 2010 , Transilvania road trip , La Spezia , Bosphor by ship , Sydney , Melbourne , AucklandSan FranciscoTauranga

Alternative tourism: Detroit , Georgia , Burning gate of Turkmenistan , North Korea , Pripyat & the alienation zone   , Nouadhibou graveyard

Alte orase din cealalta jumatate / How the other half lives :  KarachiGuayaquil  , Lagos

 


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